The plants have enjoyed our rainy Spring and so have the slugs. Try close planting (see picture of peas) to reduce slug damage. Though make sure there is adequate drainage and air between plants or they’ll go mouldy.
If you have a slope, try installing a swale so that the water runs off slowly and goes somewhere useful, ie, a pond!
The plants in D’s garden have established themselves well in front of compost bin above and also in the vertical pallet I propped up against a fence in an unused area of garden.
The last picture is of 9 Veg Polyculture by Patrick Whitefield. The lettuce and radishes working well, but can’t see any parsnips yet. Need to harvest the lettuce and rads to make way for next phase… beans!
This site was an overgrown area at the back of a East facing garden with lots of overhanging trees.
Once cleared the beds were revealed as two concentric circles defined by cobbles divided into quarters.
Surrounding these beds on all sides are contoneaster, ivy draped over neighnour’s wall, mature mulberry, young morello cherry, young pear tree, a giant ash, fairly young elderberry, box hedges, a bramble patch containing some Japanese knotweed, a huge trampoline, grassy paths, a wendy house, a 3 sectioned compost heap and probably a fox habitat consisting of dead bramble stalkss.
Discussed with client idea of using permaculture here, perennials, self seeders, fruit bushes like a mini forest garden.
using the edges as productive areas
temporary edging for colour and interest
using mulch from existing surplus
After a few months of clearing and planting
cheering up the border
putting to bed December 11
North facing strip
This is the North facing part of the garden, good for raspberries, blueberries, Jerusalem artichokes and of course nasturtiums. Lots of lilac cuttings added to provide ground cover/mulch over the winter.
This garden is large, has fairly stony and sandy soil and is worked 2 hours a week on average.
confusing mix of beans, herbs and radishes
This year I tried polyculture though difficult for the client to identify some of the produce hiding amongst flowers so not entirely effective!
Also a limitation on growing, has been a dry summer and client not always got time to water.
dry spring soil
Addressed this by using mulch of nettles and comfrey leaves as well as surplus rhubarb leaves. This also helps to keep the weeds down (scarlet pimpernel, wild rocket, viola, chickweed, plantain and dandelions are some of the favourites in this garden).
Another technique I use in this garden is sowing of green manure. In this picture, last year’s mustard self seeded and p0ked through rhubarb leaf mulch.
Alot of stuff still going strong in September in sunny fruit bush border (South facing).
As you have probably noticed, April and May have been hot and dry this year.
a bolt for freedom
If watering is a problem, (as it is above where there is not a reliable supply), then we can try planting closely together to create shade.
Beans etc May 11
We can also try planting on the site of previous compost area or close to an open compost bin. The moisture and nutrients are then available to the plants.
view of keyhole bed from the rhubarb patch April 2011
Lewisham park’s first Permaculture design space!
Come and see what Permaculture plus Nature’s Gym and Friends of Mayow Park have done!
My permaculture design for Mayow Park Pavillion Triangle
Idea: to regenerate ‘tatty’ rose beds that no one really loved and transform into a fun, edible leisure area for all ages.
laying the wiggly paths
new seating area/discussion space!
Thanks to all the Nature’s Gym volunteers, Glendale, Friends of Mayow Park, Grow Mayow volunteers and Capital Growth, of course. (Growing space 797)